Work has a nasty way of eliminating any discretionary time whatsoever, but five minutes here and 20 minutes there, I have finally managed to finish the plume flower double running strip:

On to the next band of lettering, and on to thinking about what to do after that one is done. The current rate of production coupled with a workload that promises to double again in the coming month will give me ample time for that bit of consideration.

I hope to resume my explorations into charting software possibilities. I've got an itch to publish more patterns (including the just-completed strip), but without tools and time it's just not happening.

Technorati : blackwork, counted-thread, embroidery

Charlotte asks about the colors of the bands on the Clarke's Law sampler. She says that each successive band looks lighter than the one before. I answer:

So far I've used only two colors of embroidery floss - DMC Red #498 and DMC Black #310. The top band was done in long-armed cross stitch, using two strands of red. Long armed cross stitch produces a particularly dense and raised texture.

Outlines on the grapes band were worked in double running stitch using two strands of the red, but the background grid filling was done in one strand - also in double running.

The current plume flower band is worked in double running using just one strand.

Between the relative densities of the various source patterns and the density of the working methods I've ended up with the progressively lighter look for each band even though all are worked using the same thread.

My plan for the rest of the bands is to do more of the double running work, choosing bands of different visual densities and working some but not all of them voided (with a background fill, but not necessarily solid). The next one will probably be somewhat closer in look to the grapes panel, but in between that and the current band in darkness. I will alternate bands of various densities with the black lettering. I've used plain old cross stitch for both the letters and the red embellishing squiggles that loop around the letters. If you compare it to the long armed cross stitch snippet above you can see the difference in coverage between the two.

When all of the lettering is done I'll consider working more long armed cross stitch. Depending on how much room is left on the cloth, I might just go for broke with one massively large pattern, working it voided, so that the piece has a nice dense anchoring segment at the bottom. Or there might be a couple of bands of progressively darker stitching leading up to it. I haven't chosen the patterns yet and I'm not sure exactly how much room I've got, so you'll have to stay tuned to see how it all works out.

To answer Ellis - the reason you can't see any lines drawn on on the linen for stitching over is because there aren't any. This piece is done on the count. I'm using the weave of the linen as my guide, copying patterns drawn out on graph paper, with each grid of the graph paper corresponding to square of 2x2 threads.

To answer Marya - if my pattern contains a straight line that spans two or more graph units I do not make one big stitch over all of them. I make an individual stitch for each grid unit, even if they are all in one straight line. This keeps the work neater and more true to the graphed original. Long stitches are also more likely to catch on things.

To answer [anonymous] who noted that all of these patterns seem to rely on just 90 and 45 degree angles - yes, you're right. I can't rule out totally that diagonals over a 1x2 grid unit weren't used (30/60 degrees), but so far I haven't found a historical piece that used them in this type of pattern. It's possible that some in-filled blackwork diaper patterns (the dark outline, different geometric filling variant seen below) used stitches at those angles, but I haven't had the luxury of examining enough historical works close-up to make that determination. Lots of modern blackwork does use those angles. But for me, I'll stick to the orthodox and limit my design to 45s and 90s.

Technorati : blackwork, cross stitch, embroidery

Apologies to the person out there anxiously awaiting the rest of my charting review series. I've had a serious attack of work obligations that has eaten into all time not spent sleeping. Even family maintenance has been scaled back. Blogging and research for blogging is right out. But for all of that, I do reserve to myself a half hour in the evenings for de-stressing. So I do have some progress to show on my Clarke's Law sampler:

When this band of plume flowers and branches is done I do the next line of text. At the current rate of life-obfuscation, I won't have to worry about picking the next band pattern for weeks yet to come.

Sigh.

Technorati : blackwork, counted-thread, embroidery

I'm still working on my round-up of charting software reviews. I've got three or so more dedicated programs to try, and then I'll attempt to bend standard graphics programs to my use. In the mean time, work eats at my life. I did get a little bit of time to stitch while we were watching the Olympics yesterday. Here's the result of that hour plus the prior week's worth of dinking around on my Clarke's Law sampler:

Complex, but in a blocky, heavy-torso, post Renaissance way, kind of delicate. It makes the grape border above the line of text seem meaty by comparison. This strip is mostly reversible. Some small bits like the diamond in the center of the plume/flower's base and the bark texture lines are discontinuous, and I didn't bother to either start or finish off my threads invisibly. But with a bit of tinkering to norm the non-attached bits of detail, there's no reason why this pattern couldn't be worked totally two-sided.

For those of you who are thumbing through TNCM looking for this one, it's not in there. It's part of the set I'm grooming for the next book. If the investigations into a feasible charting method ever pay off...

Technorati : Embroidery, blackwork, counted-thread

In the middle of this charting program exploration I have had time to do a bit on my Clarke's Law sampler. But first to answer a question. Aileen read my last couple of posts and wondered what I would consider a complex double running stitch pattern. I answer with pix of my current piece, plus a snippet of this pattern done up using Pattern Maker Pro, from yesterday's review.

The nickel shows scale (click for better size shots of each). This strip is stitched using one strand of DMC floss, color #498 on 32 count linen (16 spi). Not particularly fine, but fine enough to show the patterns. The entire stitched area is about 15.75 inches across. From the top of the dark red twining strip to the bottom of the the D of ADVANCED is about 8.6 inches.

The top strip and the cross stitch words were all done using two floss strands. The outlining of the motif in the wide grape strip was done using two strands, and the squared background was done using one. (I've since found historical precedent for the squared background treatment).

All of the strips between the words will be relatively light in value, done in some combo of plain or voided double running stitch, but they won't be as wide as the grapes (well, maybe the last one will be just to balance). I won't do another dark band in long armed cross stitch (either foreground or voided) until after the entire quotation is done. I think it will take another three bands of text before the whole quotation is complete. Then I'll fill out the cloth with a mix of styles, perhaps doing some in two-tone. It's all fly by night here. I'll also figure out something to eke out the line ends where the lettering comes up short. I think that NOT centering each line of text works better for my purposes, especially because I'm breaking text between lines in an unorthodox manner.

Now back to writing up the results of my stitch charting program explorations. Which for my knitting and crocheting readers, will have value. Either of the programs I described yesterday can be used to graph out colorwork repeats, or linear crochet (filet and tapestry styles). Pattern Maker Professional also allows you to assign a True Type knitting font (like the one from Aire River) to the symbol palette, and then using the program in symbols-on-graph mode, to compose knitting charts. Here's a sample from PM showing a simple double 1x1 twist cable:

Where this falls apart though for knitting is if you try to display both colors and textures at the same time. The purl symbol will always be associated with one chosen color, the knit symbol with another. Although you can override the program and display more than one symbol per color, this program links symbol and color in a way that you can't have multiple colors per symbol. Numbering rows is also problematic.

As I write up the rest of the sampled programs I'll include their potential for use by knitters.

Technorati : counted-thread, crochet, embroidery, knitting

More babbling on here today.

Faithful Reader TexAnne noted my mention yesterday of the "print to transparency" cheat for flipping charted patterns and added another that I had forgotten. Some printer drivers and photocopiers allow you to mirror-image their output. This option is most accessible in the Mac world. I remember my late, lamented Macs having a prominent command in the print dialog that allowed mirror-image printing, something that came in handy for printing out driving directions. I'd print them out in a large font in mirror image and lay them on the dashboard of my car. They were just visible as a right-side reflection on the windshield in front of me, and acted as a "heads-up" display.

Since TexAnne's note I've tinkered with the print dialogs of several PC world printers from HP and others, plus some large office photocopiers, and in most of them I've found a buried "Print Mirror Image" command. It's usually on an "Advanced Commands" tab that summarizes the state of all available printer options, but it's not often displayed as an easy to get to setting. But it's usually there somewhere. Scan to print or printing mirror image is a matter of finding and setting this hidden command. It's another useful way to use technology do do a mirror image chart flip.

Long Time Needlework Pal Kathryn reminded me of a story connected with the pattern I'm stitching now.

Back when I was working it voided on the Think sampler (lower band, shown flipped to the same orientation as the current work for comparison) I did lots of stitching (and knitting) in public. I worked in the Washington, D.C. area, and would take my projects outside at lunch and do them on park benches. I wrote to Kathryn that one day an elderly lady and her granddaughter approached me. They were of Hmong ancestry, a Southeast Asian people with a rich heritage of traditional counted cross stitch embroidery. With the granddaughter translating, the lady admired the work and asked if the pattern was traditional to my home village or family. I thanked them for their compliments and said that sadly, Brooklyn, NY did not have its own embroidery tradition, and that I'd found the pattern in a book. Kathryn says she's thought of this particular design as "the Brooklyn Pattern" ever since.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

Not much progress for this week, but my time has not been my own.

This strip will continue marching on to the right, ending approximately at the green stripe. The horizontal blue stripe shows the approximate length of the graph for the repeat as it appears in my book. More on that below...

First, thank you to those who have left comments or sent notes of support. I know that lots of knitting readers are disappointed that I've been stitching lately. The huge drop off in visitors is a clue, but some of that is due to other factors. Ravelry for instance has just about killed all but the most popular independent knitting sites. So it goes.

Back to stitching. I've got three comments I'd like to address here. The first one is of interest to knitters. Faithful Reader TexAnne points out that long block unit repeats like the one I'm working now would adapt very nicely for double sided double knit scarves. An excellent observation, thank you! I add that anything worked in strips, like a large lap throw, an edging around a circularly knit skirt hem would also show this pattern (and its kin) quite well. I've done double knitting from these before. My oven head hat is knit up from an outtake that didn't make it into TNCM. You can see the negative/positive effect in the flipped up brim:

The chart for this hat appears in a follow-on post to the hat description. And, although not double sided, my Knot A Hat earwarmer band (which appears to have lost its picture link, although the chart link works) uses another historical knotwork strip for knitting:

Charts for both these repeats can be found by following the links above.

The second comment contains questions from Ellen R. She asks if I've ever worked these patterns before, and if they can be done in voided (Assisi) style. Here's an answer to both:

I did "Think" in 1989 and gave it to my husband to hang in his office. At the time he was working for a company that used the Scots lion as its logo. All of these patterns are in TNCM, and you can see the one I'm working on now across the bottom of the piece. It's upside down compared to the strip I'm working now, and is worked voided - with the background instead of the foreground stitched. The effect is a bit different. To my eye, it's more formal done this way. You can also see more of the repeat, although even this strip doesn't capture one full cycle. I've worked quite a few of these many times, although even I haven't done every pattern in TNCM (darn near close, though).

The last comment comes from Anne in Atenveldt, (an SCA region that includes parts of California and Utah). She's got a copy of my book and notes that the chart for the current strip shows the two interlaces and the segment between, but is much shorter than the length of the strip I'm working now (or for that matter, what's in the Think sampler). She wants to know how I do the additional segments.

I attempt to answer. The extra length is a mirror image of the section presented in the book. I work along as shown for the center point interlace and then the area between it and the next interlace as shown. On the far side of the second interlace, enough of the established pattern is shown to keep the stitcher on target, but after that point a bit of mental gymnastics is required. The stitcher has to continue on by inverting the graphed segment, mirror image style until the next mirror reflection point is reached. Again, I do show some of the area on both sides of that second bounce point to assist in navigation (and because in this case the interlaces are eccentric), but space prohibits showing a full cycle of the repeat.

Now this doesn't present a problem for me, but as you can see, I've been flogging myself with this sort of thing for a long time. And it's no shame to say that doing this in-mind reflection is difficult for you. It's a matter of wiring, and not everyone can do this with ease, no more than can everyone use a map or read music.

If chart flipping presents problems, I do know of one easy shortcut. Office supply stores still carry transparency sheets for overhead projectors. They're far less common in these days of Powerpoint and projectors, but many schools still use them so they're kept in stock. They come in several flavors for various types of photocopier or printer, so be sure you've got the right kind for your machine. (Hot process laser printers and photocopiers for example use a melt resistant plastic, and can be fouled by using something not designed for them). Copy your chart onto the transparent sheet. Put it in a page protector sleeve with a piece of plain white paper. Work off it as usual. When time comes to do the flip, turn it over inside the page protector. Instant mirror image. The only caveat is that on pattens with eccentric interlaces as the flip point (like the one I'm working now), you'll need to finish the interlace as charted before flipping to work the "in-between" portion.

In all, thanks to all who continue to read here. I do hope that my prattling on is useful to someone.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery, knitting

My own progress on the Clarke's Law sampler? A bit:

I've got the full segment from one bounce point (the column down the center of the trefoil interlace) to the other bounce point (the column down the center of the heavy stem interlace at the left). To be fair, this pattern's bounce points aren't exact. The interlaces themselves don't mirror perfectly left and right, but they're close if one makes allowances for the minor perturbations caused by the stem elements twisting and weaving over and under each other.

The rest of this strip is a (more or less) mirror image of what I've already stitched. As you can see, a full cycle of this repeat is very long, making it difficult to use for clothing, but ideal for household linens, curtains and the like.

I happen to like long repeats though. They're far more interesting to stitch than shorter ones. But I'm ready for the next panel. Got to finish out this one first, then it's back to the area below the lower band of the motto. I'm not sure what I'll put there, but it won't be long-armed cross stitch. Back to double running for the next panel. And it will probably be something from my design notebooks, rather than from TNCM. If so, I may consider posting it here. Stay tuned.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

I'm just a bit tired this morning, but I've made enough progress to post. I do prefer working long armed cross stitch to regular even-armed cross stitch, but I like neither one as much as double running:

Even so, I'm plugging along. I've got the bounce repeat center of my strip done (the trefoil interlace at the right), plus about half of the infilling between there and the complementing bounce repeat that will be further left. This particular pattern is a bit unusual because the two bounce repeats are not symmetrical. They're both different, which you will see as progress accrues. This is one of the things I like about Domenico da Sera, my favorite modelbook author. His repeats are more imaginative and less stiff than many others, with a vegetal formalism that I find most charming.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

Here's what that little red scrap at the center top of the last post's picture has grown to:

To be fair, this all hasn't happened since the last post. I took that picture a couple of days before I wrote the blog entry.

This is another panel from TNCM, Plate 32:1. It's a long repeat with two reflection points. This scrap is the center of one of them. As you can see the pattern will mirror image left and right along the centermost line of the stem interlace. There's another totally different bounce line that will just make it onto this cloth, but the repeat on the other side of it won't be full cycle. I really like these extra long repeats, but they're hard to use for most modern work unless one is doing a whole length of bed linen, or wishes to stitch at gauges much smaller than most modern embroiderers attempt. The longitudinal repeat for this pattern for example is 257 units. On 14 count Aida for example, 257 stitches works out to a strip that's 18 inches long, and that's just for one repeat. I'm not much better here, stitching as I am on quite coarse 36 count linen. My repeat will be about 14 inches across, just a little bit narrower than the width of my stitched area. For the record though, this isn't the longest repeat I've got in TNCM. That one is 308 units, and is the one I want to use on my notional library curtains. Someday.

In other embroidery related news, I had forgotten that I had given my pals at the Buttery permission to post my original line unit pattern named after their house. Please respect my copyright though and don't repost the page.

Also the pattern in TNCM and available at the Buttery link above shows only a bit more than half of the fillings I worked in the swatch above. The new ones I doodled up specifically for the Do Right sampler.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

At the risk of further boring what few readers remain here, I present more progress on my Clarke's Law sampler:

I've finished off the two bands of lettering north and south of my first voided strip, and have started on the foreground stitched panel that will be the one at the top of the finished piece. I'm using yet another pattern from TNCM. This one is on Plate 31:1, and reproduces a pattern by my favorite modelbook publisher - Domenico da Sera, from a work of his dating to 1546. The original is shown in a manner that implies working the background, which I replicated in my book, but for this piece I'm stitching the foreground instead. I'm also using long armed cross stitch for this panel, not plain old cross stitch. I'm doing it the easy way though. Instead of bending the path of the stitching up to follow the course of the diagonal stems, I'm just marching across in horizontal bands, worked back and forth with each row alternating direction. This emphasizes the plaited texture more than does working all of the rows of stitching in the same direction, a detail that I like but some others don't. Some folk prefer a smoother top-leg-uniform result, and use a different stitching logic altogether. Also nice, but I prefer the complexity of the herringbone family long-arm cross stitch more.

The current band should take me about two or three weeks to finish - work deadlines willing. Then I'll begin the band below the *LY ADVANCED TE* segment. That one will be another line unit pattern rather than a solid block unit pattern, quite probably one of the ones I've been storing up post-TNCM against my mythical second book.

Technorati : counted-thread, cross-stitch, embroidery

It must be exquisitely boring especially for knitters to tune in here and see slug like incremental progress on a non-knitting project. Even so, I ooze along:

I also note that this style of embroidery on the count doesn't seem to be very popular right now, at least not among web-connected stitchers. I've been web-walking for a couple of days now, looking for inspiration to share, but found very little contemporary work, although I did find the historical artifact photos cited in my last post. I guess I'm just programmed to be doing something different - knitting before it became a fad, crocheting when everyone else was doing needlepoint, and am now off stitching obscure styles.

There are a few folk connected with the SCA with work or research that piques my interest and who readers here may find inspiring, too:

• Extreme Costuming's gallery of impressive stitched pieces. Lovely, with lots of infillings or background voiding, but not exactly what I was looking for.
• ElizabethanGeek's blackworked smock is also quite charming.
• Here's a historical example (rather than a contemporary work) from an SCA affiliated researcher - a pair of impressive Italian woman's breeches (an undergarment, really) from the mid to late 1600s, accompanied by a chart for the stitching pattern used. (Other items at the Realm of Venus website are very interesting, too - especially the embroidered shifts).

If you know of any pix of long-repeat works on the count, either voided (background filled) or stitched foreground, in monochrome or mixed colors - based on historical patterns or original - please feel free to post the links to them here in the comments so we can all oooh and aaaahhh.

Finally, if there's enough interest, I'll share some graphs of future pattern panels here, that aren't available in TNCM.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

More progress on my latest sampler. As you can see, "sufficiently" doesn't fit on one row. No problem. the "ly" will begin the row of lettering below the grape pattern. I intend on marking word breaks with the little red oval anyway. I'll probably go back and fill in the small slice of space after the final T on the first row with an all black bit of patterning after all of the words are done.

For those who are keeping track, the quotation is "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."

I'm planning my next non-letter strips - a rather dark one immediately above the existing top line of lettering, and something rather more narrow but probably not as dark below the just-begun row of lettering. I'm looking at both line unit and solid unit patterns, plus voided work and other forms of counted thread stitching. The more complex, the better of course, just to underscore the irony of using "old tech" to depict this particular thought. Among the sources I'm using are my own book, plus notes for my theoretical next one, and some on-line photos of voided work on display at the Victoria & Albert Museum. (The cited photo set was provided by the unknown keeper of the Drakt.org website. Thank you, unknown keeper!)

Technorati : counted-thread embroidery blackwork

As you can see, my voided grape strip is complete, and I've begun some of the lettering.

I'm using an embellished alphabet from Sajou #55, by way of Ramzi's Patternmaker Charts website. Just to make life interesting, I'm working the tendrils that twine around the base letter forms in my crimson, and the letters themselves in black.

My plans are to march the letters across the piece, truncating words willy-nilly at the rightmost edge if they don't fit, then continuing them on the next strip of lettering. For example, I will probably run out of room for the rest of "Sufficiently" before I get to my right hand margin, but I will finish out the word on the next line immediately below the grape panel. Words will be divided by little red ovals, as seen above between "Any" and the start of "Sufficiently." I also intend to alternate patterned panels with letter bearing strips.

I like the way this is maturing. Now just to keep at it, both planning and execution, until all is done.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

Yes, with all the cookie baking some embroidery did get done:

Here you see the first strip pattern, further along than the last stitching-related post. But not too far. Time is after all a finite commodity.

I'm a bit over half done with this particular strip. The grape unit to the right in this picture is the center one, and will be complete. There will be another partial unit of the same size as the truncated right hand unit on the left.

I'm thinking of working the words in black, perhaps using more than one of the various vintage alphabets from Ramzi's Patternmakercharts website. I'm thinking about several presentations for them, including doing each word in a different face, so that the final presentation looks a bit like a ransom note; or working each initial letter in one of the more demonstrative faces, but the rest of the letters in another simpler or lower case face; or working each line in a single face, but no two lines the same. I'm not sure yet what I'll be doing, but there's lots more grape leaf panel to stitch as I contemplate the problem.

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

"Go back to knitting!" Sorry. I've got the stitching bug now and I go where my fingers lead me.

Minor progress on the latest sampler - another panel from TNCM. This one I decided to do voided style (the original had no background). Instead of using cross stitch or long-armed cross stitch for the fill, I've opted to do a grid like mesh, worked in one strand of the same DMC floss that I'm using for the two-strand outlines. I'm not sure how I'll handle the top and bottom. I'm thinking of being non-traditional, and instead of extending the fill a couple of units past the design's base area, terminating it a unit or two inside the design, so that the grapes "overflow" their background.

The next decision is whether or not to continue this entirely across the cloth, or apportion my space differently. The piece of linen I'm using is rather large and long. I may decide to just go horizon to horizon, with no outer framing edging, and insert the lines of my quotation in between a series of strip patterns of various types. If so - do I use the same typeface for all of the words, or do I use different ones for each line. Decisions, decisions...

Technorati : counted-thread, embroidery

All the stitching on Don't Panic is done! It now goes into the "finish me later" pile. This one will be framed, with a mitered fabric border all the way around. Not sure what color for the edging yet, but I'll go for complementing rather than matching the deep green thread:

To answer a question, it's about 8 inches across from border to border.

But I'm still not stitched out. The next one is the Clarke's Third Law sampler. This one will be a large filled cloth, covered with various patterns in my usual haphazard style, probably a bit less symmetrical than the Do Right piece. I'm thinking that the saying will meander among the patterns rather than being rigidly confined to horizontal rows. It's on a finer count linen than Panic, stitched with two strands of standard DMC floss. I present the very larval beginning:

It's yet another strip pattern from TNCM, this one of grapes (Hi, Katheryn!). No, beyond folding the cloth in half to determine a rough center, I have not established a size, alignment lines, border areas, or done any other planning whatsoever. (Purists who baste in their center grids and edges are shuddering in horror right now.) I haven't even decided whether the final piece will be displayed in portrait or landscape orientation. It will be an adventure.

In other news, in spite of another spate of horror deadlines looming from now to mid January, splatting directly on what was to have been a week off from work, I have started holiday cookie prep. Long time readers here know I aim for 10 types each December, to satisfy the family's desire for lots of variety and to have plenty to give to family, friends, and co-workers.

This year's line-up includes the traditional faves, plus a couple of new items. The standards making their annual appearance are chocolate chips, pecan sandies, peanut butter, Buffalo rum balls (so called because my ancient recipe copy is noted as being from the Buffalo Evening News, sometime in the 1960s), earthquakes (very similar to these chocolate crinkles), sugar cookie cut-outs (standard Joy of Cooking recipe, this year with new snowflake cutters), and oysters. Linzer cookies are making an encore appearance, too. The new ones are rolled gingersnaps (using an odd European cookie roller) and date nut rolls (from Tatte Bakery in Brookline, as published in the Boston Globe). Also back by popular demand is the panforte I've made before. Oh. And fudge to use up leftover chocolate and nuts. I can hear Elder Daughter hyperventilating over this, all the way from her dorm...

This weekend we baked the two items that improve with age - the rum balls that need to cure to lose that raw rum edge, and the panforte because we're soaking it in Calvados this year. The others will follow, with the longer keepers like peanut butter being done first, and the tender ones that go stale quickly last (Linzers and the date nut roll). I try to have all baked by the weekend before the holiday. Deadlines willing.

And not to forget this week's holiday:

Happy Latkes to everyone!

Technorati : COUNTED-THREAD, CROSS-STITCH, EMBROIDERY, cookies