Monday, September 26, 2005
I am ever so thankful that the deadline for my Mystery Project has been extended. Over the weekend I ended up trying out and then scrapping two more construction schemes. The worst of which was a re-work of the center-out disaster from last week. The result still looked like one of Madonna's nose cone outfits. I can't show pix for several reasons, not the least of which being that I'm working from a very limited amount of yarn, and the abortive attempts have been ripped out and re-used.

The latest attempt circles back to the original idea - a stockinette piece knitted back and forth in the flat. I've moved back to double strand, as the single strand stockinette after fulling was too flabby for my intended use. I moved the increase points several stitches in from the edges. This is creating a smoother contour, and a shape more true to the design paradigm furnished with the assignment. The flat construction is also much easier to describe in written directions, a good thing as part of my directive is to create a project that's not too intimidating for relative beginners.

I've finished one of the two identical pieces that make up my Mystery Project, and am well along in piece #2 (a duplicate of #1). The third piece is differently shaped, and needs to be knit in an inconvenient direction in order to keep the coefficient of shrinkage uniform among all three. Why three pieces?? In this case I thought that having a seam would be a strengthening and supportive feature, with the extra thickness of the seam allowance acting as a skeletal element.

Of course the scariest part will be the fulling. I've adjusted the proportions of the knit original to mirror the shrinkage ratios of the swatch. It looks rather odd - longer than it's wide but if I'm lucky, it should end up being close to the target measurements. To top it off, I'll probably be fulling this by hand rather than in the washing machine. My machine is not very good for this sort of thing.

As someone who believes in statistics, probability and the value of planning rather than luck, I am not that comfortable right now. Plus I'm fighting off project fatigue. That's the feeling I get when I've learned about all I can from a particular effort or am confronted by a problem I don't think is worth the tedium to solve, and am not looking forward to the slog to completion. Deadlines make it worse. This is the point when I often set work aside, or feel the seduction of a parenthetical project. Several are calling to me siren-like right now. Not the least being a beautiful skein of blue/green hand dyed sock weight merino graciously given to me by uber-talented June Oshiro. That's calling out to become a pair of fingerless mitts. It's a reedy little voice, but an insistent one, and it gets louder every time I sit down to work on the Mystery Project.

Moral of the story:? Knit for fun, not profit.

Monday, September 26, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Thursday, September 22, 2005
My deadline looms and I'm nowhere near done. Not even close. I've even moved to mocking up with yarns other than the one provided because I won't have enough to finish the project otherwise.

I have a tricky shape to create prior to fulling. I've tried knitting flat with end row increases/decreases. I've tried short-rowing to build my contours. Neither worked well. I'm now in the middle of trying to knit a flat medallion, center-out, differing the increase points and rate of increase, plus adding short rows (rounds actually) to deform the thing into the configuration I want. So far this last method is producing the most shapely results, but I fear that the written directions will be complicated to follow. Here's one sample round:

*K1, M1, K19, M1, K1*; slip marker; K1, M1, K4, M1, K28, M1, K4, M1, K1; slip marker; repeat ** once

No two rounds are alike, increase points migrate all over the place, and the logic of the increase progression changes several times over the course of the piece.

To top it off, I haven't gotten up to the fulling step yet. I have no idea whether or not my complex shape will full into a nice flat piece, or whether it will crumple up like a head of Boston lettuce.

Frustration, frustration.

Maxim number one, repeat as necessary: If you knit for relaxation, as an enjoyable way to escape a high pressure, deadline-driven career, taking on a commission that's also deadline-bounded is a Bad Idea. Especially if unforeseen events and multiple major work-related responsibilities wolf down the majority of what you thought was discretionary time at the outset of the assignment.

Kim's Corollary:? Nothing knit under extreme time pressure ever turns out well.

AAARGH.


Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Monday, September 19, 2005
Mostly working. It's been an high pressure week, with Life encroaching on knitting time. As a result, I'm woefully behind on my commission, and have done no personal knitting at all.

After all my swatching work (unsuccessful), I am now forced to do the exact thing I wanted to avoid - winging it. Making the project up as I go along rather than sitting down to do a bit of rational planning. While winging it isn't a problem on one-offs or things I am making for myself, in this case I have to write down detailed notes as I go because the outcome is to be not only the finished piece, but also an intelligible pattern. There are some shaping challenges here, too that are complicating matters. In effect, I am making a flat motif in the round that isn't symmetrical. I have to control for an even rate of increase, and hope that after fulling I end up with a flat piece instead of Mt. Fuji.

The other annoyance is of course, texture. I have had excellent success producing a flat and ultra dense fabric by fulling garter stitch, but I did it using other yarns. This yarn fulls nicely, but not to the extent of the other yarns I had used before. I will sacrifice a bit of extra oomph and sturdiness for a sleeker, less corrugated finish.

But enough whining. It's off to work, and after work - to droning away to finish my Mystery Project.
Monday, September 19, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Monday, September 12, 2005
Over the weekend I fulled the swatches from Wednesday's post, with only equivocal success. The washing machine in this house isn't very good. As you can see, there's a little fuzzing, some uneven shrinkage, and no loss of stitch definition, even after trips through the wash/dry cycle with all six of the family's weekly loads.


Swatch 1: Double strand, knit on US #10.5, 3.75 spi, 8 rpi. 15 stitches cast on.
  • Pre-wash: 12mm wide x 10mm long.
  • Post-wash: 10.5mm wide x 9.5mm long
Swatch 2: Double strand, knit on US #11, 3 spi, 6 rpi. 15 stitches cast on.
  • Pre-wash: 13.5mm wide x 11mm long.
  • Post-wash: 11.5mm wide x 9mm long. Very distorted
Swatch 3: Double strand, knit on US #13, 2.75 spi, 5 rpi. 15 stitches cast on.
  • Pre-wash: 14.5mm x 12mm long
  • Post-wash: 12.5mm wide x 9.5mm long
Swatch 4: Single strand, knit on US #10, 4 spi, 9 rpi. 18 stitches cast on.
  • Pre-wash: 12.5mm wide x 10mm long.
  • Post-wash: 10mm wide x 8.5 (to 11)mm long. Most distorted of all
Swatch 5: Single strand, knit on US #9, 4.2 spi, 10 rip. 18 stitches cast on.
  • Pre-wash: 13mm wide x 9mm long
  • Post-wash: 10.25mm wide x 8.5mm long
As to texture - all of the swatches firmed up somewhat. There was very little difference in drape between #4 and #5, although of the two, #4 was the more fulled. It had spots where the stitches were almost melded together. Unfortunately it was also the most unevenly treated, to the point where getting an accurate measurement on it was very difficult.

I was surprised at how the heavier two-strand swatches turned out. I really expected to see more shrinkage, and a tighter, denser fabric with less stitch definition. While they're nice and dense, I haven't lost the corrugation of the original garter stitch. I also expected the swatches knit on larger needles to shrink more in relation to their original size than the ones on smaller needles.

I wouldn't consider any of the results I got suitable for producing a knitted bag, but I also don't think my swatches have fulled to their limit. I am going to try again tonight, working by hand with a pot of boiling water and a pot of ice water, and see what I come up with.

One aside - the color in today's swatch photos is much more accurate than the earlier photo.
Monday, September 12, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Still plugging along. Progress will stall though after this for a bit as I have some rather intensive fulling and knitting on the Mystery Project to accomplish.



As you can see, I'm missing a couple of solid triangles left and right of the motif at the lower right, but the final result is becoming increasingly more clear. I like the play of the large starry areas and the solid white bits. Seaming is a pain, it's true - but not so big a pain as I thought it would be. Of course I've got a zillion ends at this point. I may just take the odd moments of this week I can spare from the Mystery Project and end off as many as possible. That would be productive yet mindless work that could be done in stolen time.
Monday, September 12, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Thursday, September 08, 2005
Although I was out of town tending to family matters last weekend, knitting was accomplished - mostly on the flights and in the airports as I waited between planes. In addition to yesterday's swatches, I did some work on my counterpane.



As you can see there's a pie slice that's missing from the leftmost motif. My guess is that my missing triangle is now loose in the Orlando airport - a stopover on my way to my final destination. I doubt my feral triangle will cause more than a moment's pause as it is swept up and tossed away. So it goes.

As this piece grows larger, I can say I've definitely overbought my white cotton coned yarn. I have four enormous cones. I've gone through about a third of just one of them. I think I'll end up using just two of them to make the whole thing. Here's consumption so far. The untouched cone on the left weighs 1250g. It's the smallest of the four, with the others ranging up to about 1300g. The nibbled into cone on the right weighs 825g, and started out at around 1300g. Which all makes sense because my blanket so far weighs about 475g. (It's always pleasing when the math actually works out).



Since I've got about 20% of my estimated total surface area done, but have used only about 8.3% of my yarn (a third of one of four cones - roughly a 1/12 of my total available yarn), I'll have LOTS leftover. Still, I don't mind. It's nice yarn and there will be enough for another project (perhaps another counterpane). As an added bonus, the stuff was a very inexpensive back room find at Webs. I paid about $10 per cone for it. Since this project will last for about eight months at the current rate of production and I anticipate using only two cones, that works out to $2.50 per month of knitting enjoyment. It doesn't get any more economical than that.

How to knit on the cheap?? Don't buy what's trendy. Big fat yarns and glitzy yarns command a premium, but plain finish yarns, even first quality good wools and cottons can be had at very reasonable prices (even without resorting to reclaiming yarn).

Think smaller gauges. This stuff isn't particularly small being very close to DK weight (5.5spi), but even DK is lighter than many of the more favored yarns today. And think of? projects that get their zing from the knitting rather than from the yarn. Yes, they take a bit more time and attention than some plainer pieces, but isn't the entire idea to have fun knitting? No, if you are on a limited budget you won't be able to knit that fancy fulled cardigan from imported Japanese hand-dyed, but I bet with a little effort you could find a 100% wool sport weight yarn that would make a smashing texture stitch or stranded colorwork jacket and not break the bank - especially if you consider how many weeks of knitting time you'd get by investing in such a project.
Thursday, September 08, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Wednesday, September 07, 2005
I've decided while I can't write about everything, there are some bits of my Mystery Project that I can discuss. Especially in the early stages. I've already said that it's a commission for Classic Elite, and that it's going to be fulled.

Here is my first set of swatches:



That's a lot of swatches!

I'm using CE Renaissance. It's a 100% wool worsted weight yarn. It's got quite a bit of loft due to it's three-ply construction, and the maker's gauge is expressed in a range - from 5spi on US#7 (4.5mm) to 4.5spi on US #8 (5mm). My direction is to make a very firm fulled fabric, so I've made three garter stitch swatches from double strand and two garter stitch swatches from single strand. Here are the pre-wash specs:

Swatch 1: Double strand, knit on US #10.5, 3.75 spi, 8 rpi. 15 stitches cast on. Total dimension: 12mm wide x 10mm long.

Swatch 2: Double strand, knit on US #11, 3 spi, 6 rpi. 15 stitches cast on. Total dimension: 13.5mm wide x 11mm long.

Swatch 3: Double strand, knit on US #13, 2.75 spi, 5 rpi. 15 stitches cast on. Total dimension: 14.5mm x 12mm long

Swatch 4: Single strand, knit on US #10, 4 spi, 9 rpi. 18 stitches cast on. Total dimension: 12.5mm wide x 10mm long.

Swatch 5: Single strand, knit on US #9, 4.2 spi, 10 rip. 18 stitches cast on. Total dimension: 13mm wide x 9mm long

Although I used up a whole skein plus part of another in swatching, it's worth it. Note that I've got not quite a straight progression, but enough of a gauge and texture difference to make the experiment worthwhile. The plan is now to full these as much as possible, then compare the final dimension with the pre-wash measurements. That will allow me to figure out what my knitted dimensions need to be to achieve a post-full target measurement. I'll also get to see how both row and stitch measurements change (important as knitting does not shrink uniformly in both dimensions. I'll also find out which of my gauges produces the best fulled fabric for my purpose. Washing will happen later this week. Stay tuned!

How do I know which swatch is which? See those knots in the cast-on tails? That's how they're numbered. With luck those knots will still be discernible after fulling.
Wednesday, September 07, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Thursday, September 01, 2005
I think I've mentioned that I've done some minor design work for Classic Elite. I know that some people are curious about how the pro design thing works. Bearing in mind that my experience isn't typical, this is how it's been for me.

I'm not a first-stringer. In general, I don't pursue the company by submitting design proposals. I'd say I'm more of a third-stringer. They call me with specific assignments based on ideas or inspirations generated by others - usually at last minute. My guess is that I get called when more famous and prolific names are overbooked; when embroidery is involved; or when deadline crises are afoot. That's o.k. by me, as I don't have the time/energy to devote to knit design as a full career path. I've also done some contract knitting, crocheting and embroidering for them, producing finished items based on other people's designs, and in the process proofing (or fleshing out) the pattern's early drafts.

What have I done lately? Nothing big, that's for certain. The current collections include two of mine.



This is a hat and mittens set (I'm not responsible for the sweater jacket). This assignment was mildly challenging - take one skein of the bulky (almost superbulky) luxury yarn Tigress and work up an adult hat and mittens set that's easy to knit. Since 200g of Tigress is only 181 yards this was a squeeze. I managed it though, with a very simple rolled brim hat with some garter ridge details, plus a matching rolled cuff basic mitten. I have to say I am not a fan of big-needle knitting and won't be making another set, but my 14 year old loved the hat and mitts and was loathe to send them off when I was done.

This one was both easier and more difficult:


This assignment was to create a striped hat/wristlets/scarf set using yarns of two different weights, but of the same fiber composition and dyed in the same colors. The yarns didn't have names attached when I was using them, but I think they've been dubbed "Princess" and "Duchess" since. My homework was to take as inspiration a series of photos showing striped knitting adorned by looped embroidery stitches. In truth, I don't remember which pieces use which weight yarns (the submission deadline was back in the Spring), but I do remember trying to plan the pieces to make the most efficient use of the yarn. Again, simplicity and beginner-friendliness were the marching orders. These use plain old seed stitch. The hat and wristlets were knit in the round. The looped embroidery stitches aren't difficult to do, and are (of course) optional. You have to **love** seed stitch though as there are miles of it in the scarf. Of the two yarns, I did like working with Princess (the worsted weight version). I didn't retain any (see below) and I don't have the finished item, so I can't comment on durability or washablity. Duchess was also nice, but I'm not fond of heavier weight yarns in general.

Past projects I've done include a long striped scarf in Bazic, ornamented with pattern darning and fringed down one long side. The photo of that one in the pattern leaflet didn't show the embroidery, so I have no idea if anyone was ever inspired enough to try it. I also did a series of nesting baskets crocheted in a very heavy cotton yarn a couple of summers back. I've worked on other projects as well.

I'm sure people have lots of questions about the design process. I'll try to head some off here:

For real?? They say what to make, and you just make it?

For me that's how it's been. Real designers with lengthy portfolios and industry-wide reputations must have more latitude.

How do I get involved? How can I get my stuff published?

Yarn makers and magazines have design guidelines (by issue for the magazines). Look them up and submit written proposals outlining your idea. Make sure your idea includes a sample swatch, and enough info to make it intelligible to someone else. This may mean lots of sketches and schematics. It does NOT include sending a whole finished garment. Be prepared for hundreds of rejections before an acceptance. Also be prepared to feel like you've tossed your ideas into A Great Black Hole. Also, your proposals will not be returned unless you include return envelopes and postage (another reason not to send full garments at this stage). You WILL be taken more seriously if you've got a "knitting resume" behind you. That might mean a track record of publication elsewhere (a chicken or egg problem). I do note that some of the on-line venues are a bit more welcoming of submissions than are the yarn houses or paper mags. They might be a good place to start. (Oh, and if like me you've ever been a burr under the saddle of any publisher or maker at any time in the past, you can pretty much forget about placing anything in their venue.)

In general after you submit your proposal it's mulled over for a while. If it's selected, you get your marching orders to proceed, plus a contract outlining what you owe (written design or written design and finished sample), the number and range of sizes the item needs to be written for, specifications for the exact yarn and possibly even the color desired by the publisher, and the deadline for submission. Be warned:? that deadline may be as little as two weeks away, and may involve a yarn that requires you to recalculate your entire design, so advance knitting is not always entirely productive. The deadline cycle is the main reason why I don't try to do this on a professional basis. I just can't commit to doing anything major to hard, short deadline.

How much does it pay?

Not much. Even though it is taxable income (reported under "Miscellaneous" or as a home business), if you work out the hours invested in proposing, designing, drafting, swatching, test-knitting, pattern writing, and proofing you'll quickly figure out that you'll be working at less than minimum wage. Way less.

Do you get free yarn or get to keep the finished item?

Yes and no. If you work for a yarn company directly like I did, they do send more than enough yarn to make the project. But under contract, I'm obligated to return any leftovers and swatches, so I don't get to keep any. i also don't get to keep the finished item - that's the photo shoot/trunk show/demonstration model and gets returned to the pattern publisher as part of the agreed-upon deliverables. The sample belongs to the publisher, not the knitter, even though the knitter worked on it.

It's worth noting that not every designer knits up his or her own samples, some subcontract out. Others just do the design and the publisher arranges for the sample to be knit as a separate contract. Also, if you're knitting for some other entity than a yarn maker, you might have to buy the yarn yourself and factor that into your total contract price.

You sell-out. Isn't this a big commercial for CE stuff?

I don't think so. They're not paying me to push these patterns, and I don't get extra for increased sales. Plus I rather doubt that anyone is going to buy anything based on this rather non-gushy blog entry. I have also recused myself from posting any reviews of Classic Elite products on wiseNeedle since my very first professional interaction with them. I'm mulling this policy over though, as not all of my experiences with their products have been uniformly joyous. Still, I thought the general experience might be of interest to some.

Why are you talking about this now?

Because I've just gotten another assignment from Classic Elite. All I can say about it is that fulling and embroidery are both involved. It's going to kill me not to be able to blog about this particular design process real-time because there will be all sorts of lessons learned on the way. So please be patient with me. There won't be much counterpane progress until this has passed, and I'll be scampering around looking for other things to write about. Suggestions there are welcome.

Thursday, September 01, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  | 
Tuesday, August 30, 2005
There are an awful lot of people in Mississippi, Alabama, Louisiana and possibly points further north who will be needing an awful lot of help in the coming days, weeks, and months. And I'm not talking about knitting socks or hats for them either.

If you can afford it, consider donating money to the relief efforts just getting started to assist people affected by Hurricane Katrina. Here's a link full of legitimate charties that can funnel aid to people in need.

UPDATE:

Unless you have a personal contact at someplace that's sheltering refugees, and a guaranteed way to get stuff to them (NOT US Mail, UPS, FedEx or chartered truck) - donate money instead of trying to send goods. Think about it. There's no infrastructure to distribute goods, and there's a far greater need for the assistance personnel down there to do search and rescue, transport of the vulnerable, wounded or sick, than there is for them to sort donated items for distribution.

More places accepting money donations:
American Red Cross
United Way


Tuesday, August 30, 2005 1:00:00 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)  #    Comments [0]  |