It's official. There may be a week and a half to go before school in this area starts up again, but summer is now officially over. This weekend past we retrieved the offspring from Roads End Farm:

Now it's the double-time quick slide back to lunch boxes, homework, and maternal nagging.

On the olive green tablecloth - progress continues. I decided to add width by continuing to knit center out rather than adding an edging knit around the circumference. I did some planned increases in a solid strip to bring the stitch count up to a multiple suitable for working an extended pattern I found on another cloth in the same Duchrow volume. It's a wide panel of [K3tog, (yo)2x] ground, with all of the triples aligning to make prominent radial ridges. Sort of close-in spiderwebby. I'll work them though as center double decreases to increase the effect. When the panel is about 5 inches wider (about 10 inches total in diameter for the entire cloth), I'll branch out into the plume-like/peacock final pattern from the Duchrow instructions. My only concern is that I may have to rip back a bit and start again. I think that the new area is a bit rippled. I probably should have continued for a couple more rows of plain stockinette before launching my chosen ridge and terminal frond pattern. I'll know for sure after the next row. If anyone is keeping track, my circumference is now something like 960 stitches around.

And from the wide-wide world - I was surprised to see this illustration in the fashion column in this weekend past's Boston Globe magazine section:

Knitted lace high stockings. I can do that! Perhaps I will. Elder Daughter would probably have a fit of delight to receive a pair.

For the record, some look like they have stirrup bottoms rather than full feet, and some are listed as tights, meaning they have a pantyhose style integrated top rather than just a stocking and garter tie like the leftmost offering in the pix above.

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To take a break from baby gifts, I picked up my green lace tablecloth this weekend past. I've now made my way to the end of the charted patterns.

The last two rows of the second chart are a bit confusing for non-German speaking users. I finally figured out that they refer to a crocheted bind-off. The lower row symbol (either the number 2 or 3) indicates how many knit stitches are to be gathered up in a fastening single crochet, and the upper row number symbols indicate how many chain stitches are to be created between those single crochets. But I didn't do the indicated bind-off.

I estimate that if bound off now, my piece would be about 45-48 inches across. I wanted a piece that was 52 inches or more around. That means I now am off in the land of improvisation. I did the penultimate charted row by working k3-tog or k2-tog as indicated, but adding the "subtracted" stitches via yarn-overs, trusting that I could get away with one row that didn't add a ton of stitches to increase total piece diameter.

Now comes the problem of what to do next. I do have to add a considerable bit of depth. I don't think that an edging strip knit around the circumference will be deep enough all by itself. I think I'll have to work another coordinating segment, knit center-out before launching into any as-yet-unspecified pointy or dagged edging. Unless I can find one of the particularly deep edgings that sports "collar properties" - that is significantly wider along the free side compared to the attachment side, so that it naturally conforms to a collar-like, graceful curve. Now I know there are quite a few of those out there, but whether their repeat length, increase ratio, and motifs work well with the stitch count and pattern of the base cloth will all contribute to my final decision.

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Just before the fourth of July week, I got some yarn to make baby gifts. One of the items was this cleverly packaged kit from Plymouth:

It contains a ball of Cotton Kisses yarn, three little ducky buttons, and two patterns - one for a three button cardigan (below), and one for a three button placket pullover (shown on the yarn ball). Both patterns are given for three sizes, from newborn through 1 year. The entire thing was $14. at my favorite local yarn store in Lexington, MA. This weekend past I went on a small kid-free vacation, and while away, knit it up while sitting on the beach.

I did the cardigan in the 6 month size. It's finished except for sewing on the buttons. I made buttonholes on both sides of the button band. When I find out the sex of the target baby, I'll sew the buttons onto the appropriate spot, covering up the unneeded set of buttonholes. I had ample yarn left over - probably enough to do matching socklets, so there should be plenty of yarn to make the largest size.

This was a very inexpensive and quick project. The directions are clear and simple. There is minimal shaping, and interest is provided by a double welt garter ridge detail at the bottom of the body and ends of the sleeves. The only vague bit was the direction to make three evenly spaced buttonholes. I substituted two stitch one-row buttonholes for the K2tog/yo ones written up. All in all a new knitter could handle the creation and assembly of this project with ease.

My only caution is a very mild one on the yarn itself. Cotton Kisses is a loosely plied multi-strand cotton blend. One of the strands is fuzzy cotton, slubby and puffy, the other three are thin binder strands of the blend fibers. All are very inelastic, as one would expect from a yarn of this composition. While the resulting texture is extremely soft and pleasingly random, hiding any imperfections in stockinette stitch formation, working with it does take a tiny bit of concentration to avoid splitting the strands. (The variegated color I was using also camouflages any stitch irregularities.) People who don't like the inelasticity of cotton would also probably not like working with this one. Still - for a very economical quick knit baby project that's cute and easy to do, with a yarn that with a tiny bit of patience gives an excellent result even for new knitters struggling for stitch evenness - this one is a go.

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The yellow baby blanket is mostly done. All that's left is to graft the beginning of the edging to its end, and darn in the dangling ends. Here it is patted out and pinned to the back of the sofa, which accounts for the strange dimensional distortion.

I'm 80% satisfied with it. It's small, more like basket or car seat size than crib size. I only had four skeins and used all but about ten yards of it. I'm only halfway pleased with the corners. The math worked out to be a multiple of a half repeat. That means that two corners were mitered starting at the narrowest point of the repeat, and two were mitered starting at the widest point. I will say that mitering at the narrowest point for this symmetrical edging worked better. That corner is in the upper left of the photo. Its opposite at the upper right looks clunky by comparison. If I had the thing to do over again (with more yarn) I'd work another three inches of the center panel so that all four corners could begin at the narrowest spot on the edging repeat.

The stitch patterns for this one also came from the the first Duchrow book. The center is pretty much verbatim, and can be found on page 35. The edging is inspired by the companion edging presented on the same page. My version is truncated by about a third of the original width. I arbitrarily cut off about eleven right hand side stitches, turning what were diamonds framed by a zig zag on the dagged side and triangles on the join side into plain old triangles, and eliminating a column of fagoting. Along the way I noticed that a smaller "junior" version of the same thing could be worked by using only a portion of my rows. I present both in the pattern graph below (click on it for full size version).

How to miter the corners? It's easier than you think on a symmetrical pattern like this. I do them on the wrong-side rows, working one stitch fewer each wrong side row and wrapping the last stitch I work in each wrong side row until I reach the reflection point of the repeat (the shortest or tallest point depending on where I start), then I reverse the process, re-incorporating one previously wrapped stitch (along with the wrap at its base) on each wrong side row until I've reclaimed my full width and returned to the same point in the repeat where I started. Sounds confusing, but give it at try.

Now on to Baby Gift #3 - the little sweater kit. It turns out that there's yet another in queue, after the sweater it looks like I'll be knitting at least one more small blanket, plus some other thing to be determined when inspiration strikes.

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I ended up ripping out the entire yellow blanket and restarting it. But I made the central part narrower - only three instead of four repeats. I slimmed it down based on yarn consumption estimates, and because I decided to trim it out with an edging rather than leaving it plain. I haven't done much thinking about the edging's corners. I'm winging it when I get to each. Photography is hard right now, so I present the traditional String photo of something wadded up into a mega-snood on a circ:

One of the things I find most comforting about knitting is that mistakes are not forever. Unlike say woodworking in which once your lumber is cut, it's cut, with some minor exceptions, it's always possible to rip out knitting and begin again. Since I'm one of the process rather than end-product oriented knitters, and deplore deadlines of any kind outside of my professional life, having to rip back isn't a major burden. Of course, I do sometimes get annoyed at wasted effort and sometimes am frustrated enough to consign a project to Chest of Knitting Horrors(tm) limbo, most of the time it's just grab the end and rewind.

Work schedule willing, I should have this blanket finished by next week. That will be Baby Gift #2 done, and I'll be on to #3.

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In the name of expediency I started on Baby Gift #2, but instead of working in the fingering weight wool I had bought on sale, I dipped into my pile of recently received gift yarn for an Aran weight acrylic in baby yellow. It's unstretchy and slightly fuzzy, but very soft. I figured that on US #10 needles, I'd make short work of a quick blanket. And it looked to be heading that way:

Can you see the problem? Takes a while if you're not looking for it.

See the zig-zag on the left? In the first four repeats, it's flanked by little diamonds on alternate sides. That's how the repeat is SUPPOSED to look. Those other zig-zags with the diamonds soldiering up one side or the other? Nope. That's wrong. My first 1.5 repeats across are correct, after that all goes to hell.

Now why did this happen?

Because I was too cocky and wasn't paying attention. I can usually memorize a pattern this simple in a pass or two. I thought I had it licked, and continued to knit away on autopilot, without checking the Duchrow book pattern chart I was following or looking at my work. In fact, I didn't notice the problem until I patted the blanket out for this morning's photo.

What next?

Ripping back the one and a half skein of knitting you see above. The good thing is that I cast on for this only on Friday. That's just three evenings worth above. The bad thing is that this yarn is surface fuzzy, and taking it out will be a pain. But if I go back to the very beginning I'll get to do some minor engineering. I think that I'll do something deliberate with the repeat, possibly with some mirroring or (on purpose and symmetrical) distortion.

Idiot me....

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Finished the fuzzy Entrelac blanket.

Because I began it with a cast on row plus two garter ridges all the way across before starting the foundation triangle row, I finished it in parallel by picking up stitches across the top and working two more garter ridges and the cast off row. Now all that remains is to wash it and darn in the ends. For some reason I never do that until just before I am ready to give the gift.

On to the next baby gift - #2 of 4. At the same LYS mega-sale where I got the fuzzy, I also picked up some Asa Gjestal Spinneri Baby Superwash in a light turquoise. It's marked at 28 st = 10 cm, about 7 spi, but feels comparable to Dale Baby Ull. I could do a strip or medallion blanket throw out of it, or I could work up a sweater and hat set. Not sure. I've also got a couple of lots of soft acrylic at worsted weight given to me by a friend. There's enough there to make a couple of blankets, too - one pale yellow, one pale blue, and another white with flecks one similar to the one I did back in the early Spring:

The other thing I bought was not on sale. It's a cleverly packaged kit from Plymouth Yarns. It contains one large ball of Cotton Kisses yarn (mine is a baby multicolor), four duck-shaped buttons, and instructions to make one of two sweaters - either a v-neck cardigan or a placket pull-over, both knit on US #5s and #7s. There's enough yarn in the kit to make one item in one of three sizes - newborn, 3-6mos, and 6-9mos. If you figure a leaflet is usually two or three dollars, and four buttons of this type would run two bucks, too, this all-except-needles pack was very reasonably priced at $14.00 for the whole thing. I'm holding off starting it until I know the sex of the target baby. Although there's no real reason to differentiate, I think I'd make the placket for a boy and the cardigan for a girl.

So, I'm off to experiment, not quite sure which of these projects I'll start tonight.

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I got a private note yesterday from a knitter who seeing the fuzzy entrelac blanket posted yesterday, wanted to know how I knew the spotty yarn would work well for it. I reply.

Frankly, I wasn't sure what I was going to do with my spotted yarn. But multicolors come in several flavors. While there are no hard and fast rules in knitting, there are some general principles I use to help figure out what to do with multicolors, especially because I'm one of the yarn-first folk. I rarely have a specific project in mind when I purchase yarn, and usually have to find or invent something to do with my new treasures. Also, as long time readers here have seen - I don't always hit on the best use right away. Sometimes it takes me a couple of starts before things work out. I don't mind ripping back. To me it's part of the process of exploration and discovery. Now these thoughts are things that work for me. Your taste is probably different from mine, and there's nothing wrong with that, so please don't think these are put forward as rules for everyone.

For me, first comes yarn choice. Multicolors come in all sorts of types and color combos. I have to like the color set and mix proportions as a whole. I like to look at my target yarn from a distance - 10 feet at least, to see if the skeins "read" well as an aggregate. Lots of times one or more of the colors pops out strangely from a more harmonious background. I tend to avoid those mixes. I do however like multicolors that are composed of different colors but similar intensities.

Once a color combo has caught my eye, I look at the length of the repeat. On skeined yarn, this is relatively easy, especially if the yarn shop allows customers to untwist a skein. Never do this unless you have asked permission and you know you can return the yarn to the original twist, neat enough to be indistinguishable from the on-shelf stock. Then do so once you've made your evaluation. Or ask the yarn shop staff if they can untwist/retwist for you.

On DK and worsted gauge, I figure about 1.5 stitches per linear inch of yarn. On sport and fingering, figure 2.5-3.5 stitches per inch of yarn. A run of a single color as wide as my palm on a DK is probably a bit over 5 stitches when knit up - just under an inch worth of knitting in DK gauge. Shorter areas of color end up looking like little spots. Longer ones produce broken stripes. Really long segments produce larger stripes (depending on the circumference of the piece being knit and the gauge).

What to do if the yarn comes in a ball rather than a skein? You've got to guess and estimate. Look at the put-up. Estimate about how long one circumference wrap of the ball is. For example, if you look at the Noro Kureyon Sock below you can see that the wrap goes diagonally around the ball, and that there are about four or five wraps before the color changes.

The ball is approximately 7 inches long (the spread from my index tip to small finger tip with my hand splayed - it's good to know some standard biometrics of your own hand for guesstimation), so a rough estimate is that one wrap around the ball would be about 15-16 inches. The individual color patches on this yarn are probably on the order of 65-75 inches long, probably something like 24-30 linear inches of knitting at an approximate sock gauge. (My socks are about 11.5 inches in circumference on the ankle, so for socks one color segment would probably make a stripe a bit over two or three rows deep).

A yarn with lots of rapid color changes will read very differently from a yarn that's mostly background color with scattered spots. The rapid color change yarn will, from a distance, almost seem to do an impressionist's blend, and appear as a hue median to all the colors being represented. That means that a yarn with a zillion little spots of color, each individually quite clear will end up looking like a muted blend of all of them from a distance. Tweeds and multi-strand ragg style yarns (two or more plies of different, sometimes variegated color twisted together) are good examples of this effect. My Impossible Socks uses a ragg-twist multicolor tweed in combo with solid blue. The overall effect of the tweedy yarn is much darker and muddier than its constituent bits, even without the navy stripes.

Colors that blend one to the next can also present problems. Sometimes the nondescript areas between vivid colors predominate if evaluated as a general proportion of total skein length. A lovely multicolor on the shelf may actually knit up rather muddy, with only small flashes of the marquee hues. Conversely, colors that shift abruptly from one to the next can produce a rather motley and jarring effect, with each jostling against its neighbors. In longer repeats, I tend to favor yarns that have few or no blended transitions. I also prefer that any transition areas make up less than 10% of the total color cycle.

Because of the "tweens" challenge with shading multicolors and the perceived meld problem in general, I tend to stay away from yarns with wildly disparate color combos, and stick mostly to multicolors with either a well established and pleasing uniting background color; to yarns that present either multiple variants of the same color (like a continuum from light blue to navy); or to yarns that offer up two or at the most three closely allied colors (like red to yellow, with side trips to orange). The Paisley shawl illustrates this visual mind meld. It's a raspberry to blueberry blend. The detail shows the color spots clearly, but the big picture blends both into a medium purply garnet.

In terms of color repeat length, I try to match projects to the repeat length. I've found in general that unless I can engineer repeats to deliberately and predictably flash, I am not wildly fond of large areas of multicolor yarns knit flat. They're just not very interesting to me worked that way. I much prefer trying to introduce movement or to break up the large-field effect. Entrelac works nicely. The color repeats in the strip below (from my Chest of Knitting Horrors ™ graveyard of unfinished projects) uses Entrelac to make the most of a short color repeat. Each square is only about an inch across.

If the repeat is long, you can engineer something fun like my Snake scarf, displaying the long repeat's gradations to maximum advantage, or working center-out medallions that radiate from one color to another (the brown throw is all knit from the same color number Blauband sock yarn).

If the color bits are extremely short, the diagonal movement introduced by the Entrelac patches combined with the narrow "bounce area" of the patch width evens out the distribution of the spots, and makes them look like ice cream sprinkles (jimmies to my fellow Bostonians).

Sometimes I've broken the rules and used directional-distortion texture patterns with self stripers to break up the march of concentric rings of color by zigging the texture this way and that. My SeeSaw socks, published in KnitNet ages ago are a good example. These are in fact my original SeeSaws, still in service after all these years:

If I can engineer it, I really like making yarns flash - knitting them in the round so that patches of the same color align on top of each other to create an almost painterly effect. The wildly jarring colors of my Rainbow Mills Matisse sweater would not have worked well together if the piece hadn't been designed to flash. Look at the cuffs and waist ribbing to see how muddy and non-descript the blend is without color stacking. You can also see the difference in the flash pattern produced by the difference in body and sleeve circumference.

An alternative approach is to limit the width of the strip so that colors bounce back and forth across a narrower strip of ground. That can make the individual stripes deeper, and add interest by adding the "collision lines" where the repeats abut. The piece below was interesting because it was made from four skeins of hand-dyed from the same batch. They were close, but different enough to each present its own periodicity of repeat when knit into strips of equal width.

Sometimes I'm faced with multicolors that just can't be tamed by stitch direction, calculating garment widths to make them flash, or working them in narrow strips. My favorite solution for those yarns is to find another yarn that coordinates - either by picking up a color from the repeat itself, or by adding another color in contrast. Then I work my solid along with the variegated in stripes or other patterning, in a proportion that tames the wild mix, in effect forcing an new uniting background color into the repeat. In the sock top below, the solid is the magenta. The variegated was turquoise, yellow and hunter green. An unlikely and loud combo, but one that worked.

So to sum up, there's a use for almost every multicolor yarn. Things that make using multicolors easier include harmonious, balanced color sets (even if they're bright), and a minimum of muddy areas. Introducing movement by stitch direction or by narrowing the strip being knit can be more interesting than the same yarn knit totally flat in stockinette. It IS possible to use texture patterns with multicolors, and even the most savage multicolor can usually be tamed by introducing a background or contrasting solid.

Hope someone finds this useful, so that a skein that's been languishing in stash somewhere finally meets inspiration.

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